Victory Café
581 Markham St., Toronto
416-516-5787
www.victorycafe.ca
Hours: Mon.-Fri. 4pm-2am, Sat.-Sun. 10am-2am, Brunch Sat.-Sun. 10am-3pm
By Elisha Denburg
Posted April 23rd, 2007
Perhaps because the loyal clientele fears sharing it with others, the Victory Café has remained one of Toronto’s best kept secrets. At once unassuming, cozy and vibrant, the Vic lies at the corner of Markham and Lennox in Mirvish Village, boasting a deliciously satisfying menu of fresh pub food and about a dozen microbrews on tap. Old standbys like the Victory Cheeseburger (cooked to your liking and always juicy, never dry) and Beer-Battered Haddock pair well with a pint of F&M Stone Hammer Pilsner or Mill St. Cobblestone Stout. A new and flavourful twist on the club sandwich thankfully disposes of the worn-out idea of three pieces of dry toast and serves the works on a soft, fresh-baked triangle ciabatta. More traditional fare comes with Victory fries, aka perfection in the form of fried potatoes served with a delightful dill aioli. Vegetarian options dominate an entire side of the menu, providing comforting options for our herbivorous friends.
If the predictable (albeit extremely tasty) pub fare is a bit too plain for the more adventurous eater, The Vic offers a refreshingly creative series of nightly specials at excellent prices. Parmesan-crusted lamb shank is slow-roasted to delectable tenderness, and served over creamy mashed potatoes alongside a simple citrus-dressed artichoke salad. Rosemary-mustard-crusted top sirloin is complemented beautifully by sweet potato fries and date-brie-stuffed Portobello mushrooms. Diners can finish off with a slice of warm Victory Apple Pie, the Vic’s sublime triple-chocolate brownie, or a smooth crème brûlée.
The limited seating fills up quickly on a weekend night, so come early for food and drink. Slowly migrate upstairs to hear the Hot Jazz String Quartet and other great music that is offered throughout the week. For a more sedate atmosphere, try a relaxed mid-morning brunch outing. An added bonus in the new warm weather is access to the Vic’s fantastic patio space.